Mongabay: The landscape during the five-hour ride from Medan, the capital of Indonesia's North Sumatra province, to Tangkahan village is dominated by manicured rows of oil palm that stretch for hundreds of kilometers in all directions. The sky is darkened by clouds of smoke from nearby forests set ablaze to clear land and from the smokestacks of pulp refineries along the way. What once was a drive through lush tropical forest has become a bumpy journey across a monoculture of non-native tree crops used to...