Audubon: The one with the gun arrived with a cocky flourish, sauntering through the doorway in a white muscle tee and blue jeans torn at the knees. He settled in on the plastic flooring, lit up a thick clove cigarette, and began animatedly to talk about the 23 critically endangered birds he'd shot from the Indonesian sky in the previous five months. All cheekbones and shiny black hair, the handsome 37-year- old passed around his 4.5-millimeter weapon so we visitors could admire its sleek caramel stock and...